2013年3月26日 星期二

法國旅程的好開始,由安全的城市Rouen(魯昂)出發。

A marvellous journey in France to starts from the safe city Rouen. A good beginning

At the airport in France on my way back in 2012 I met two business men: one was a British and the other a Spaniard.  They suggested that I should try going around the country, which would take only a month and prove to be an excellent tour.
As a result in 2013 I planned to start from the west of France.  Heading southward I would go to the French snow area close to Italy.  Then crossing Switzerland and Liechtenstein I would enter Austria.  On the return journey back to Paris I  could choose to pass through Germany.  I would allow two and a half months to complete the itinerary and at the same time I could attend some sculpture programs.
Though I was prepared to set off on 25 March from Hong Kong
I was so busy that only one day before boarding the plane I booked my places to stay for eight consecutive days.  Then I carefully planned my itinerary, hiring cars and reservation in family guesthouses.
The first station was to be Rouen.  At the airport in Paris I bought a ticket to Gare du Nord and then took the train to Rouen.   The journey took two and a half hours.
Arriving at Rouen Station by the side of River La Seine I dragging my luggage along began to look for my hotel.  Fortunately, a very kind-hearted French man offered to lead me along and in fifteen minutes I finally reached the hotel.
Rouen was a tranquil and elegant city,  different from the hustle and bustle of Paris.  The walk from the station along River La Seine enabled me to feast on the rich exotic charms of the country.


La Seine, 塞納河,我便是住在對面。 La Seine,  I was staying on the opposite side
2012年在法國機場回程時,遇到兩個商人,分別一個英國人和一個西班牙人,他們建議我下次嘗試環繞法國一周,會是個不錯的旅程,提議用一個月已足夠。

結果2013計劃由法國西面開始,南下進發,再往近意大利的法國雪山區,進入瑞士境後經列支敦士登Liechtenstein入奧地利,回程返巴黎可經德國所以預了兩個半月,期間亦可修讀些雕塑課程。

雖然預先定了325日由香港出發,但因工作關係,上機前一天才決定酒店,一訂便8天,再慢慢計劃往後的行程、租車、訂民宿等等。第一站選了-Rouen ,在巴黎機場先買票至Gare du Nord再轉火車到Rouen,車程約個半小時。

到了Rouen 火車站,拖着行李找酒店,很近塞河La Seine,途中有一個法國人熱心帶路,終於在15分鐘到達酒店。一個寧靜有氣質的城市,與巴黎的世俗和繁忙然不同。由火車站走向河邊的塞納河,那種異國風情一瞬間呈現眼前。
紅圈位置四樓,我住的酒店房間,拿着大行李上樓梯太累了。
The fourth floor circled red is my room; 
carrying my bulky luggage upstairs is extremely tiring
火車路線  Train routes

Rouen made me feel as if I were in Kyoto Japan.  It was so old and graceful.
The spring that year was particularly cold.  Luckily I could have time to get better prepared at Rouen.  At Lafayette nearby I bought a pair of woollen socks and a scarf.  To protect the neck and knees was most important.  Since I forgot to bring my travel cooker I bought an electrical rice cooker, with which I could prepare my meals on the snow-capped mountain.
I was about to visit www.covoiturage.fr. to hire a car.  On this platform car owners and long-distance travellers could join together as long as they were on the same route or heading to the same destination.  This could save their expenses and be environmentally friendly.  However, because of security reason I still hired a car through an agency.  Actually I was over cautious for afterwards at the family guesthouses at Chamber d'hote the local people told me their children always joined together when travelling across the province.
It was the festival of Easter.  In a shop selling my favourite art materials the shop assistant highly recommended a visit to the cathedral on Easter Sunday. 
Yes, indeed it was a wonderful experience.  Early in the morning the entire street was filled with the chimes of church bells.  This reminded me of the hymns I heard in the mosque at Istanbul.  So rich with religious atmosphere.

Once entering into the cathedral I saw sparkling lights,  which reflected the colorful glazed window glass onto the stone pillars.  Heavenly lights were shining so brilliantly.  It was completely different from its quiet usual self!  Moreover,  the choir was singing hymns bringing along greater grandeur.
Rouen給我的感覺就等於日本的京都,古雅樸素。
今年春天特別冷,在Rouen預備好一切才出發都是好事,在附近Lafayette買了一對冷襪和一條頸巾,最重要保護膝蓋和頸。我忘記了帶travel cooker,所以在當地買一個不用電不用生火的飯盒,即使在雪山都可煮食。租車,最初以當地常用的網站www.covoiturage.fr 這是車主和長途旅客找旅伴併車的平台,只要找到往相同目的地的旅客,便可相約合併駕車前往,既省錢又環保,但基於安全理由,最終都是用租車Agency及後在民宿Chambre d’hôte得知這是很普遍,他們的子女都經常這樣併車過省。

適逢是復活節,一間我喜愛的美術用品専門店,其職員極力推薦我在復活節當日到主教堂一逛。
一清早的復活節,整條街都响起教堂鐘聲,跟多年前曾在伊斯坦堡聽到的回教樂聲一樣 ,散佈着濃厚宗教色彩。
踏入教堂看到燈光閃耀,反射色彩斑爛的玻璃窗在石柱上,有天堂神光照耀的感覺。比起平日寧靜的教堂,今天有詩歌伴唱,氣氛特別熾熱。

由火車站到酒店步行約18分鐘
The walk from the train station to the hotel takes about 18 minutes









1. Musée départemental des antiquités Rouen
2. Fontaine Sainte Marie Rouen
3. Église Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc
4. 27 Jeanne d'Arc St
5. Général de Gaulle Square
6. Cathédrale de Rouen
7. Comfort Hotel Alba Rouen
8. Monastery of Saint-Ouen(Abbatiale St-Ouen)











小插曲-是時候要做運動了

A meaningful scenario-- Time for doing exercises

Once coming out from the Paris Airport I went to join the queue to buy my express train ticket.  The queue was very very long.  A cool young French gentleman asked where I wanted to go and he offered to be my French interpreter.  He happened to be on the same route, at least go to the same transit station.  I had better follow him.

Do the French really love to walk and go up and down stairs?  They refrain from using lifts sometimes!
But my bulky luggage including my laptop and big knapsack could not be compared to his small and light backpack.
At last he could not stand my clumsiness anymore.  He grabbed the most bulky case and urged me to hurry.
Unfortunately my ailing body had not significantly recovered in the last four long years.  I only cared to eat and sleep.  I definitely could not catch up with him.
He could do nothing but stop to wait for me.  "I think you badly need doing some physical exercises!"
Eventually we reached the Rouen ticket station.  "We are to part here.  You can go to buy your train ticket now.  Remember,  you should count yourself lucky to have met me today!" he scornfully said.

True.  If he were a thief,  my luggage would have disappeared.  How could I chase the thief?
一出巴黎機場,便往市區高速鉄路售票處排隊,人龍很長,一位很酷的法國年輕男子問我買票往那裡去,可替我用法文傳釋。幸好他跟我同一方向地點轉車,我沿途跟着他好了。

法國人是否很喜歡行路和上落樓梯的呢?有電梯也不用!
但我的大行李,手提電腦和大背囊,怎可跟他的輕輕鬆鬆背包相比!
最後他忍不住,一手幫我拿了大行李,一心減輕我負擔,可以走快些,
可惜病了四年的我,沒有把身體鍛練好,只管食和睡,真的沒能量去趕了。
他只好停下來等我幾條街,仍是很酷的說:「你需要做些運動!」
終於到來往Rouen火車售票處,他才冰冷的笑着說:「我們在這裏分道而行,你應可以安全地去買火車票了,記住,今天你遇到我是你的幸運。」

沒錯,我想如果他是賊,我的大行李已沒有了。別人拿了我的行李都追不到啊!

Musée départemental des antiquités Rouen
Fontaine Sainte Marie Rouen
Église Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc
Général de Gaulle Square

Rue de la République
Général de Gaulle Square
27 Jeanne d'Arc St

Jeanne d'Arc St(big clock)
酒店房間外望主教堂Cathédrale de Rouen夜景
Cathédrale de Rouen at night, viewed from hotel room

Cathédrale de Rouen


第一份在Rouen買的禮物,送給嫂嫂的。
The first souvenir bought at Rouen, for my sister-in-law
Cathédrale de Rouen內的屋頂設計
The ceiling design of Cathédrale de Rouen

Cathédrale de Rouen Model
Stairway to Heaven
Cathédrale de Rouen內的氣氛莊嚴
The solemn atmosphere inside
Cathédrale de Rouen內買贈品售賣處
The kiosk selling souvenirs
Gothic church of St-Ouen(Abbatiale St-Ouen)

這是酒店附近的一間展覽廳的海報
A poster of an exhibition hall near the hotel
午餐只用了EUR8,賣相還不差吧。
Lunch costs only EUR8, Appealing, isn't it?


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