2013年4月29日 星期一

Le Parc national régional du vercors

在山上向下望的國家公園  The national park viewed from the mountain above
Do not take for granted a national park is just an ordinary park.  In it the paths are not neatly arranged or easy to follow.  Any time goats, deer,  rabbits and many other wild animals may suddenly appear before you.  At first I thought I could drive all my way to the national park.  I was wrong.  Cars could not have access to certain areas, which could be reached on foot only.

The higher I drove upslope the more uneasy I felt.  Mine was the only car there.   The roads were very narrow and debrised with twigs and rocks.  All of a sudden a hill of snow came up and it was very thick, up to my leg.  My car was held up.  I then tried to scoop away the snow with the fallen branches. In the sun I gradually became confident.
However,  without warning a shower of light rain fell.  "Please stop!  I am running out of time.  I have been scooping snow for an hour."
Ah!  My prayers were heard and the rain stopped!  I picked a larger branch to speed up the clearance process.  I wanted to drive forward in vain.  The road was too narrow indeed and moving in haste I might be in great danger -- falling down from the high mountain!

"If God is merciful please send someone to help me out.
  Such an act of providence would strengthen my belief in God."
Oh!  Two people showed up in the distance.  Though I did not appeal to them the gentleman came before me asking me why I was scooping snow.  And he remarked that I could drive along, and wondered if I needed their help.

Actually they were a French young couple spending their holiday in May there.  The lady was a primary school teacher.  They were like angels sent to my rescue.  The gentleman helped me drive away from the snow-covered area.  The lady told me there were not any roads ahead.  The GPS I was using was not reliable.  They offered to travel with me.   But how could I abandon my car and went away?  Moreover,  I must hurry otherwise I could not reach my destination before dark.
At last the gentleman helped me drive through the snow-covered area and suggested I go confidently forward.  They would be at my back.  They would help me out in case I had trouble again.  Of course,  I was most grateful.  Were they actually angels sent to save me?

They once asked if it was too risky to travel alone.  This mountain in fact was very secluded and normally nobody would go there.  It was really a coincidence or a miracle that we passed by there at the same time.  I told them about my prayers before meeting them.  I also firmly believe that I could survive partly because of the good deeds of my parents.  God would not allow their dear daughter to be trapped or injured.  My parents broadly smiled when I told them the incident.

不要認為國家公園是普通花園,不簡單亦不易走的山路,隨時隨地見到山羊,鹿,兔仔等等野生動物。這次依GPS駕車到國家公園,怎料駕車是沒法去到目的地,因為不是車可以去,而要步行才能完成。

越向上駛去越覺得不對路,又是只得我一架車,山路很窄,亦很多樹枝和石頭在地上,突然前面有大片積雪,厚厚的如我小腿那麼高,車停了不肯駛過去。我只好找樹枝清除地上的雪,在陽光下不覺得怕,但突然又下小雨。我心想着不要下雨吧,我沒時間了,已挖了約一個鐘。呀!真的聽到我的訴求,停了雨;我找大一點的樹枝,希望快一點清除雪。再試開車駛過去,都是動也不動,因山路窄我都不宜太心急,否則可能跌落山的。

我的心又再想:如果世上真的有神,那便有個人出來幫我吧。我便相信有神!
啊!真的有兩個人從另一方慢慢出現。我沒有主動理他們,但其中一個男士走過來問我為甚麼在挖雪,你的車應該已駛得過這雪路,還問有需要幫忙嗎?

原來他們是一對法國年輕夫婦,五月到此渡假,女的是小學教師。他們的出現就像小天使般來打救我,男的幫我駛過雪地。但女的告訴我前面是沒有路的,不要信GPS,他們願意和我一起同遊。不過,我怎能放下車走去行山呢?況且要繼續趕路,否則天黑也未到目的地。
最後,男的再幫我駕車向回程駛過雪地,他們叫我放心向前走,他們會在後面沿路行,我有問題他們一定會在。我當然很多謝他們,真的是天使嗎?

他們曾問我只得一個人旅行,不怕遇險嗎?這個山頭應該沒有別的人會到,他們也是巧合在這裡經過。我說了先前對神的請求外,我深信我父母是善良的人,上天不會忍心讓他們的女兒出意外的。他們聽了便在笑。

這個範圍已走入了國家公園,有很多蓄牧牛羊小屋,亦有很多野生動物在山上。
This is the vast domain of the national park:  a large number of cottages and livestock roaming about on the hills

2013年4月27日 星期六

Gorges de l'Ardèche, France - the Yangtze Gorges in France 阿爾代什,法國的三峽

Leaving Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort, we did not expect we would come to Gorges de l'Ardeche and the world famous Vallon-pont-d'Arc for they were not mentioned in the itinerary.  As we came across the signposts indicating the scenic spots, we just casually followed the directions.  Ah!  How good were these recomendations!  We were in a changing Shangrila!
At Vallon pont d'Arc there were a lot of camping cars.  Many families were having a picnic.  And some people were swimming,   rowing rubber dinghy or engaged in other sports in the stream to their hearts ' content.  

剛離開了Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort,行程內沒有預算會來到Gorges de l'Ardèche 和出名的Vallon-pont-d'Arc。但沿途見到旅遊境點標誌,便隨意試試跟指示看看有路標推廌的風景。
真是沒有介紹錯,很有世外桃園感覺!
首先經過Vallon pont d'Arc,有很多Camping Car,一家大細在野餐、游泳、亦有沿河駕駛皮划艇,各式其式。

Gorges de l'Ardèche
Vallon-Pont-d'Arc

駕車行走D290路線,沿途先到達Pont d'Arc,向上行山路至頂的最佳瞭望處,可觀望其中一個Gorges de l'Ardèche全景。
We drove along motorway D290 and soon arrived at Pont d'Arc
沿着D290山路,有很多山洞車隧道。
法國有很多山路都沒有高圍欄
沒有高圍欄的山路好似很危險,但亦感到很自由。















這間民宿是用大石砌成,連洗手間都如是,顏色很自然。
房間外出大廳,很寬趟。



這間民宿早餐有格仔包和自製蛋糕
餐廳內晚餐後提供甜品是意大利的Tiramisu
法國經常餐前以鮮菜作沙律,很新鮮,很健康。我很喜歡他們的調味。
餐廳內廚師推介Mock fish,是海中牛扒。味道除了鮮味,咀嚼時果然很有口感,很實在。

2013年4月24日 星期三

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence-Carrières de Lumières

這個迴旋處在 saint-just 30, décor de rond-point
The traffic-circle at Saint-just 30,decorum de rond-point
途中不時都有優雅樹狹道兩旁
On the way lining the road on either sides
many elegant luxuriant trees are planted
經過這松樹,再向右轉便是今晚入住的Chambre d'hôte
Passing these pines and turning right I come to Chambre d'hote for the night



From Saint-Just to Saint-Remy-de-Provence I drove for more than an hour.  This village is situated at the hub of Provence and the typical life-style of Provence prevails. Walking through the  lushly shaded road I was in no time charmed by the paulownia trees over a hundred years old.
The blooming lavender fields in June were rare beautiful scenes.  But I came in April and I had to miss the marvellous sights!

由Saint-Just 到 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence大約1小時多。

這法國chambre d'hôte設計不太傳統,是新建成的。
Chambre d'hote is a new building; the design is nothing traditional
這個村在普羅旺斯的心臟,典型的普羅旺斯生活方式。你很快會被沿途的百年老梧桐樹樹蔭的魅力吸引,漫步林蔭大道。

六月盛開的薰衣草花田更是難得的美景,可惜我今次在四月到來沒法欣賞了!
露台外望,其中一輛是主人車,今晚唯一入住只有我。
Two cars: one is the host's and the other is the only guest's, mine, viewed from my balcony
除了大草原外,這民宿養了兩匹馬。在途中也會看到騎着馬的法國人,好瀟洒!
In the expansive meadow two horses belonging to the guest house are kept.  On the way I met several French men enjoying riding their horses.  Isn't that wonderful?
很光猛舒適的寢室 Brightly lit and comfortable bed room
隔隣的房間是"太陽", 而中間隔了一個中空室內庭園,植物綿延向上生長。
The room next door is the "sun" and in the middle is an indoor garden, 
in which plants can continue their climb upwards
露台外望,面對一望無際的草原,心曠神怡!
Looking out from my balcony I command a boundless meadow.  It is a serene scene!
Breakfast is served outdoors,
which makes us feel the touch of nature

This egg dessert is more than acceptable
By the side of the guest house there was a house of similar size.  It was constructed for the grandchildren, who occasionally came here to visit their grandparents.
When I was having breakfast a small boy and a small girl came to greet me.  They were not shy before strangers like me.  In fact, they started talking with me. The boy was about four years old and the girl eight.
They wanted to teach me how to speak French, and insisted on accurate pronounciation.  They even fetched a big dictionary from the house and began teaching me like teachers!
Though I knew how to pronounce the word 'horse', I wanted to find out how they would teach me.  Casually I pointed at the two horses there and raised my question.  They worked like a team and opened the big dictionary.  I deliberately made mistakes again and again.  They looked helpless and annoyed.  How cute were they!
The grandmother seeing that they were about to get an ipad to strengthen their teaching told them not to disrupt my breakfast.  Then giving me a kiss they departed reluctantly.
Oh!  Never had I expected to be awarded two sweet kisses early in the morning!

民宿旁同樣起了一幢差不多高度大小的屋。

原來用作孫兒回來探爺爺嫲嫲時小住幾天。剛好我食早餐時,一男一女的小孩走過來,他們不怕陌生人,笑着跟我談話,小男孩只有4歲,女孩8歲。他們很想教我講法文,並要求我發音很準,所以不怕走出走入的在屋內拿了本大字典,很開心地充當我的小老師。雖然我懂怎樣讀"馬"字,但我想看看他們如何教我,便隨意指着兩匹馬問他們。他們齊心掀開字典並努力教我,我故意多次發錯音,看他們肉緊的樣子,很可愛!

嫲嫲見他們在屋內想拿多一部ipad圍着我,便告訴他們不要阻我食早餐,他們最後給我一個吻便離開了。

啊!
沒想到晨早有兩個甜密可愛的吻!

Entering the sitting one would find it in harmony with nature outside.  The down-to-floor glass window and the indoor planned garden show the desired attachment to nature of the host

Looking carefully with the aid of a magnifying glass you would find rows of cars in the distance.  They are waiting for their turn to see the exhibition in Carrieres de Lumieres




The outside of Carrieres de Lumieres
The walls inside before the lights are off
Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Terrasse à Cagnes (détail), 1905





Color

Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Bal du Moulin de la Galette (détail), 1876
Because of the recommendation of the hostess I paid a visit to Carrieres de Lumieres.  This was an exhibition of the works of a number of impression school artists.  The visual effects were excellent.  Coupled with the matching music the atmosphere there was great indeed!  Nearby there was a sculpture park.  I could reach it easily on foot.  Admission was free.
在民宿的女主人推薦下,我參觀了Carrières de Lumières。這是多位著名印像派畫家的燈光投影畫展,很有視覺享受之餘,配合音響效果,感覺很宏偉。在展館附近有石雕公園,自由步行可見,不用入場費參觀。

l'histoire
Claude Monet - jardin

Claude Monet - Voyages en Méditerranée
沿途尋找餐廳,陽光猛烈,了無人煙。Along the way looking for a restaurant the sun is blazing and not a soul is found





Pont du Gard, France - 學懂如何看樹木上標記找目的地

Learning to read the symbols on a tree for guidance to go to my destination
Pont du Gard of France, a Roman Aqueduct, is situated near Remoulins in Province Pont du Gard.  This outstanding Roman architecture is now honored a cultural heritage in France. It is, in fact,  one of the most beautiful ancient Roman architectures in that area.
法國加爾橋 Pont du Gard,英文名是Roman Aqueduct,位於法國加爾省靠近Remoulins的地方,是古羅馬建築的傑作,法國的文化遺產,加爾橋渡槽是該地區最美麗的古羅馬建築之一。
另一處山路,見路牌指示前往Pont Du Gard。
On the footpath there are signs indicating how to get to Pont du Gard
沿途山路不算崎嶇
The footpath is not too rugged
古羅馬建築遺留痕跡
Relics of ancient Roman architecture
沿途的樹林
The wood the path passes through
這黃色標記代表選對了正確方向,前進並向左繼續行。
The yellow sign indicates the right direction followed, 
to move forward and keep left
樹木上的第一條黃色代表可繼續去目的地,
下面代表前面有另一條路可以去,但紅色代表可能路段比較危險。
The other yellow sign means continuing to go forward to reach the destination.  
Below another sign indicates another possible route 
but the red color warns that may be more dangerous
Then sticking to the instructions of GSP I headed to Pont du Gard.  Now I came to an area administered by a certain organisation.  First I had to pay the parking fees of EUR18 before I was admitted.  However, it was almost four o'clock and I did not have much time.   I left shortly to follow a path on the hill.
When I was about to set off again a Frenchman came to me to teach me how to interpret the signs on the trees.  Following the yellow ones I would arrive at my destination ; the red one was to warn me of some possible danger ahead and a cross would indicate the route might be blocked.
Actually along the journey I came across many warm-hearted French people, who volunteered to advise me and help me.  How lucky and grateful I was!
Before leaving my home Hong Kong my uncle suggested I avoid staying alone and try joining other travellers whenever possible.  Then I could free myself from pickpockets and swindlers.  Bearing this in mind I gladly joined a big family with many adults and children to continue our journey and I really felt safe and relaxed.
Regretfully I left Pont du Gard, my destination, after taking only a few glimpses.  I did not have time to see it clearly,  I hope I will have better luck next time!
隨着GPS的指示前往Pont du Gard,而這場地是由某機構管理,首要是先付停車場泊車費EUR18,方可入場觀看。但因到達入口時已下午3點幾接近4點,剩餘參觀時間太少了,結果我改由山路前往。

當我預備行山路時,從山路走出來的一位法國人告訴我如何看樹木上的記號,便是隨着黃色標記可找到目的地,還提我紅色是代表危險,交叉標記則不通。

其實沿途旅程遇到很多熱心的法國人自動走過來提點和幫忙,真是很窩心亦感幸運!

在香港出發前,舅父已提點我,如遇到有群眾沿途旅行時,不妨跟在一起,盡量不要自己獨個兒行動,這樣可避過小偷和騙子的注意,免至成為他們的目標。的而且確我是緊記這點,剛好今次行山同路的是一個家庭,有大人和小孩,我的安全感大增。

今次只是嚐試怎樣找到目的地 - Pont du Gard這地方,最終只是離遠觀望便要回程,跟本談不上完整的參觀了加爾橋!下次有機會,我一定再來。

終於見到Pont du Gard  Seeing Pont du Gard at last
離遠見到Pont du Gard, 但前面是比較難行和危險路段,雖然如此,沿途的同行者已繼續向下走落山了;而我因要趕往別的地方,只好暫時到此一遊。
Pont du Gard is seen in the distance.  But the route ahead is difficult and dangerous.  The reporters still continue to go downhill.  Owing to my tight schedule I reluctantly bid it farewell

2013年4月8日 星期一

Saumur, France 法國索米爾,幸運地遇到石雕塑的好老師。

Fortunately coming across an excellent stone sculpture teacher at Saumur, France
It took me about three hours to drive from Mont St. Michel to Saumur.  I stayed at a guesthouses ABACA Lodge.  The host happened to be a stone sculptor Pierre Nouri.  He lived with his wife and kept a cat of a very special kind.  Similar to most French families today their children left to pursue their own careers when grown up.  And the rooms vacant behind were transformed into rooms for guests.  They started to run the guesthouse after some renovations to meet the required standard of guesthouses in France.
Only after meeting the host did I know he was a stone sculptor.  He had a work shop beside the guesthouse for producing his works and teaching students.  He recommended me an exhibition centre Pierre et Lumière.  There he was the instructor and had his masterpieces displayed in the main hall.  All his guests going to the exhibition centre would be given a special discount on admission fees.
由Mont St-Michel出發到Saumur索米爾,行駛高速約3個鐘車程。入住民宿ABACA lodge, 主人是一位石雕塑家Pierre Nouri,除了他和他的太太居住,還養了一隻很特別品種的貓。現今一般法國家庭,當子女長大了,搬離父母住所出外闖,家裡多出的房間便改為招呼客人,成為民宿。當然房間要經過修飾和合乎法國民宿標準才能開業。

今次入住後才知道主人是位石雕塑家,民宿旁設有工作室,用在日常教學和製作雕塑。
Pierre Nouri 推介當地一間展覧館Pierre et Lumière,原來他是幫這展館教學,亦有他的作品放在展覧廳大堂。所以他的客人參觀會有優惠,憑他給我的入場劵有折。


教會、村莊、城鎮和城堡的全景雕刻
Sculptures of churches, villages, towns and castles
Tours Cathédrale Saint-Gatien 的石雕
Stone sculpture of Tours Cathédrale Saint-Gatien
Tours Cathédrale Saint-Gatien
Inside the centre churches, villages, towns and castles were displayed as the main themes. 
館內作品以教堂、村莊、城鎮和城堡為主題。
Angers
St Georges des 7 voies
Le Thoureil
Cunault
Trèves
Chênehutte les Tuffeaux
St Hilaire, St Florent
Vieil Baugé
Saumur
Pontigné
Montsoreau
Fontevraud
Bourgueil
Candes
Restigné
Chinon
Tours
Amboise

Among all these Tours' Cathédrale Saint-Gatien was the signature masterpiece.
They were miniatures of the actual images, delicately and exquisitely carved out, including the tiny spectators in the plazas.  Under the gentle lighting the strata appearance was brought up.  The drawings on windows and carvings on walls of the churches were clearly portrayed.
Tours 圖爾的Cathédrale Saint-Gatien聖加蒂安大教堂是其中振館之作。
其精細度和實景建築物很相像,而廣場上的群眾雕塑得很細緻。
Vieil-Baugé l'église
燈光下的石雕更有層次感,每個窗花和教堂上的特別之處也刻畫得一模一樣。
Vieil-Baugé l'église


Vieil-Baugé l'église 石雕近
Vieil-Baugé l'église
由Mont-St-Michel 行高速至Saumur, 也要3個鐘之久!
From Mont-Saint-Michel to Saumur along the highway is a three-hour driving distance
從民宿网上下載的相片,ABACA lodge的房間,很舒適而房內竟然有琴。
Chambre d'hôte, ABACA lodge. Photo par Pierre Nouri
The photo from the website of the guesthouse ABACA Lodge shows 
the room is a very comfortable one with a piano






















After seeing the exhibition I returned to the guesthouses.  But Mr. Pierre Nouri asked me to go there once again.  He wanted to tell me how the sculptures were processed and produced.  What an eager and ethical teacher he was!
Once reaching the exhibition centre he led me to see his works.  At the same time he taught me how to work out the proportions between the actual architectures and the sculptures, and how to observe the relationship among the various objects and how to depend on pacing and length of the leg for calculations.
In his workshop he demonstrated the production of the basic materials by hand as well as the expected hand work.  Specially he introduced the use of natural calcium rock materials for making the models.  The natural rocks were ground into colorful grains of different calibres to yield different effects.  They were natural and their colors would be everlasting.  He also showed me how to produce color materials by grinding glass bottles.  He kept reminding me of all the details about the sculpture process and correct attitude of the sculptor.   I did learn a great deal!   He did not mind my humble background and was so kind and generous !

我參觀完展館便返回民宿,Pierre Nouri先生仍想再和我去多一次,希望講解製作雕塑過程,很有教學熱誠的老師!

去到展館,帶我參觀他的作品,教我如何計算實際建築物和雕塑模型的比例。如何注意四週邊的建築物之間互相的比例和關係,用腳的長度如何量度等等。

在他的教室亦示範了製作雕塑的應有手勢和顏料是如何手製。特別介紹的是用天然的鈣華石製作模型,用的天然石磨成不同顏料,有不同的粗幼便有不同效果,因為是天然所以便不脫色。用玻璃罇磨顏料,都是他親自示範給我看。雕刻時注意的細節和處理態度,都使我獲益良多。我很多謝他有教無類。

Another story
The first Frenchman I taught tai ji quan

When we were having our last breakfast in the guesthouse my sculpture teacher suddenly asked me if I could teach him and his wife some tai ji quan.  I wondered why they thought I knew how to play tai ji quan. 
Actually to most foreigners tai ji,  so outstanding a Chinese cultural wholesome exercise, is taken for granted a kind of common knowledge among all Chinese people. 
Luckily, since I was a little girl my father, who happens to be a tai ji quan teacher of high esteem, started instructed me on this martial art.  I still can master it to a certain extent.
As his wife had been suffering from some eye ailments I suggested she do more eye exercises.  And the tai ji quan I taught them was the most basic forms easy to remember, including the 'Starting Form' and 'Cloud Hands'.  Only intent concentration to couple with the rhythms of breathing could bring expected good result.  I sincerely hope they will grasp the idea correctly and be truly benefited from the practice.

小插曲-
我教第一個法國人學太極拳
這位石雕老師在我留宿的最後一個早餐,突然問我可否教他和他太太一些太極拳。我問他為何覺得我會懂太極拳呢?原來在他心目中,太極是中國傳統武術之一,亦聞名於世的養生健體獨特文化,是普及全中國人社會的運動。
幸好我真的自小跟爸爸學習太極,不懂多也知少吧。

因他太太的眼睛不太好,我叫她做多些眼部運動,而我教他們的太極亦是最基本而最容易記的"太極起式"和"雲手"。意念修煉配合呼吸才能收效,希望他領匯和對他們有益。
石雕塑家Pierre Nouri和他的愛貓
Stone sculptor Pierre Nouri and his beloved cat
看看牠的表情多神氣
Look,  how proud it is!
為愛貓特別做的遊戲柱
Pierre Nouri的示範
Pierre Nouri is demonstrating his art
展示櫃頂的玻璃罇內,放了天然石磨成的顏料。
In the glass bottles in the exhibition chest are the ground colorful rock materials

用鈣華石製作模型,盧瓦爾河的高山峽谷,是Pierre Nouri的作品。
The castle in the high mountain valley is a masterpiece of Pierre Nouri made from calcite material
大堂放了Candes-St-Martin 表現結構上的石雕,是結構上有難度的建築物。
In the main hall is placed Candes-St-Martin's stone sculpture displaying an architecture with high degree of structural difficulties
Pierre Nouri帶我去Candes-St-Martin實地觀察,
看看建築物的結構有多難度。
Pierre Nouri takes me to Candes-St-Martin 
to appreciate the actual architectures  
there and their intricate structure
Candes-St-Martin
Candes l'église石雕模型
Stone sculpture of Candes l'eglise
Notre Dame de Cunault石雕模型
Stone sculpture of Notre Dame de Cunault
Notre Dame de Cunault
Chicken Spaghetti
Saumur restaurant

Saumur Château
由索米爾城堡Saumur Château 望向盧瓦爾河 Loire
Saumur Chateau overlooking River Loire